Philodendron McColley’s Finale is the perfect plant to choose if you’re seeking a tropical-summer vibe in your home all year round.
Philodendron McColley’s Finale, also known as ‘McColley’s Finale,’ is a tropical hybrid plant with arrow-shaped leaves that range in color from cinnamon to orange and turn green as the plant matures. The Araceae family includes Philodendron McColley’s Finale, which is one of the most exotic and lavish plant families in terms of leaves.
In the West Indies and the Topical Americas, ‘McColley’s Finale’ grows wild (Central American coast and off the Caribbean islands). This is due to the high humidity in these places, which is good for plant growth.
Philodendron McColley’s Finale thrives well in low-medium lighting, although it can also handle bright light if it is indirect. Unfortunately, McColley’s Finale does not like to be damp; thus, overwatering it could stunt its development.
If you’re thinking about buying or planting a McColley’s Finale, here’s a thorough care guide with all you need to know to keep it healthy. Watering, lighting, temperature, fertilizers, and much more are all covered in this guide. In addition, a guide on how to propagate Philodendron’ McColley’s Finale’ is also included. I hope this information is useful; have fun!
|Common Names||Cherry Red|
|Botanical Name||Philodendron "McColley's Finale"|
|Mature Size||Height: 18 to 24 inches, Spread: 12 to 18 inches|
|Sun Requirements||Partial or Dappled Shade|
|Soil Type||Peat-based potting soil, well-drained|
|Propagation (seeds)||Remove seed(s) from berry which contains chemicals that inhibit germination.|
|Other Metods of Propagation||Cuttings: Stem|
|Containers||Needs excellent drainage in pots|
|Toxicity||All parts of plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, an irritant to the mouth and esophagus.|
Because it thrives in medium to low light, the Philodendron McColley’s Finale is an excellent houseplant. It also doesn’t have an issue with fluorescent lighting, making it ideal for offices.
Because the amount of light available indoors is limited compared to outside (due to walls and ceilings), the plant thrives in bright, indirect, or dappled light.
This permits it to reach its full potential and produce the most colorful leaves possible.
However, avoid direct sunlight, long periods of harsh sunlight, and too bright light for long periods. All of these factors can cause sunburn to its fragile leaves.
On the other side, dark environments and a lack of light should be avoided. This will inhibit the plant’s growth and make it lanky and spindly.
It prefers moderate shade if you choose to leave it outside. However, avoid direct sunlight because your skin won’t be able to endure it day in and day out.
Philodendron McColley’s Finale thrives in a well-draining combination when it comes to soil. The soil pH should be between 6.1 and 7.5 at all times.
Garden soils with high organic content, such as humusy and loamy soils, are ideal for Philodendron McColley’s Finale. But if you have your McColley Finale in a container, you can use a well-drained aroid potting mix.
Because the conventional houseplant substrate is prone to compaction, you can strengthen its structure by mixing in equal amounts of peat moss, sand, or perlite. You can also grow it in a ready-made cactus mixture, to which you will add 50:50 peat moss or perlite.
Orchid barks, coconut husks, or smaller pieces of brick can be added to the mix since the root likes to wrap around them, generating air pockets that increase the soil’s airiness and, in turn, the plant’s health.
The weather affects the water requirements of the Philodendron McColley plant. Water the plant frequently in the summer to keep the soil equally moist. On the other hand, winter necessitates allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.
The appropriate watering frequency is estimated to be about thrice a week in the summer. However, once or twice a week for the cooler days appears to suffice. Like other philodendrons, overwatering and damp soil are a big no-no for this one.
With ordinary household humidity, your Philodendron McColley’s Finale is OK. The humidity in most homes is between 40% and 50% for most of the year.
The plant will be happy and grow well if the indoor humidity is over 40%. Humidity levels can dip to between 30% and 40% during extremely hot, dry summers and bitterly cold winters. This is something you should be aware of.
If you have this problem or live in a dry area, misting is a fantastic approach to enhance humidity. However, excess moisture in the leaves can lead to mildew, mold, and other fungal diseases, so be careful not to overspray the plant. You can also put it in a pot with other plants, on a pebble tray, or in the bathroom. But, of course, all of this raises the humidity level in the area.
If you want the plant to thrive at its best, keep the humidity at 60% or greater. This will give it the nicest look, including the most bright-colored leaves.
The majority of philodendrons prefer warm, humid conditions. Therefore, the recommended temperature range for McColley’s Finale Philodendron plant is 16 to 24 °C (60 to 75 °F). Temperatures below 12 °C and above 30 °C are unsuitable for this delicate peep, and slow growth is likely.
If you live in a cooler climate, you should move the plant to a warm location as soon as the fall season starts.
It’s preferable to fertilize Philodendron McColley’s Finale only two to four times a year during the summer when the plant is actively growing. During the fall and winter, avoid fertilizing Philodendron McColley’s Finale. Also, make sure to water the McColley’s Finale as you’re feeding it to keep the product’s concentration from stagnating.
A Philodendron McColley’s Finale must be fertilized in a certain manner, at least six inches away from the base. Overfeeding a Philodendron McColley’s Finale can cause root and leaf damage, so be careful while pouring the product. When fertilizing these plants, it’s preferable to use slow-release fertilizers.
Philodendron McColley's Finale Pruning
Philodendron McColley’s Finale isn’t a plant that needs to be pruned all of the time. However, because this plant is known for growing quickly, you can clip the older leaves around the base to improve its appearance.
It’s also a good idea to eliminate any sick or dead leaves. By observing the hue of the leaves, you may clearly identify these. For example, the color of dead or diseased leaves changes from brown to yellow.
If your Philodendron McColley’s Finale is growing in a vertical position, you may need to conduct a little more leave maintenance due to McColley’s Finale’s tendency to climb.
Repotting your Philodendron McColley's Finale
Before repotting your Philodendron McColley’s Finale, wait until it has outgrown its container. The plant despises being disturbed or moved. So, don’t do that if it’s not absolutely necessary. This also cuts down on the amount of extra labor you’ll have to complete.
In a perfect world, you’d wait until the plant’s root ball fills the pot. But instead, the simplest way to determine is to look for roots peeping out from beneath the drainage holes in the container’s bottom. This is a clue that it’s time to repot when this happens.
Early in the spring, just before the plant begins to produce leaves, is the finest time to repot. When you do, choose a container that is no more than 2 inches bigger in diameter than the one you have now. You don’t want to use a pot that’s too big since it’ll hold too much soil.
If this happens, there will be an excess of moisture when you water, which will take a long time to dry. This may leave your plant’s roots submerged in water for an extended period of time, perhaps causing root rot.
How to propagate your Philodendron McColley's Finale?
Philodendron McColley’s Finale can be propagated in a variety of methods. These are some of them: stem cuttings, division, air layering. They all work, but their success rates differ. Similarly, the degree of difficulty, the amount of effort required, and the time it takes for them to grow differ.
As a result, one of the most prevalent procedures is stem cutting. It’s simple to accomplish and has a high success rate. You also don’t have to remove the root ball from the container, which makes things easier.
To propagate Philodendron McColley’s Finale from stem cuttings, follow these steps:
Step 1: Search the growing edges for stem cuttings. Choose the stems that appear to be the healthiest and have at least two or more leaves.
Step 2: Cut the plant’s stems with a sharp knife or scissors. Make sure the cut is as precise as possible. If you rip the stems too hard, the plant will be traumatized, and you won’t be able to enjoy a fresh Philodendron McColley.
Step 3: Place the clippings in an oil-filled container (ideally a glass jar). Cover the jar with a plastic bag to promote humidity and increase your chances of success.
Step 4: Place the plant in the container in a medium-light area. Make sure it isn’t exposed to direct sunlight, as this will destroy it. Keep an eye on the plant and provide maintenance until it begins to produce roots.
Step 5: After the McColley’s Finale has been in the container for 3 to 4 weeks, carefully remove the plant to test if it will resist. If the plant exhibits symptoms of resistance, it has effectively developed new, robust roots.
Step 6: Once the roots have grown approximately an inch in length, gently transplant it to soil and enjoy your new Philodendron McColley.
Philodendron McColley's Finale: Common pests & ilnesses
Pests aren’t a problem for your Philodendron McColley’s Finale. As a result, you might never have to deal with any of them during the course of its existence. It is not, however, immune to them.
This means that when it is traumatized, in shock, or under stress, its defenses may be compromised, allowing these invaders to infiltrate.
Spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids are the most prevalent pests that attack your plant. Cleaning the leaves of your Philodendron McColley’s Finale regularly will aid in early detection. Alternatively, you might do routine inspections.
If you detect any, use insecticidal soap spray or water and dishwashing soap to treat them right away. Neem oil can also be used.
Diseases can also be an issue.
Excess moisture is, for the most part, your adversary. This is because it causes mildew, mold, and fungus to grow. Leaf spot and blight are the most prevalent diseases that affect Philodendron McColley’s Finale. Root rot is another issue that affects all houseplants.
Is the Philodendron McColley's Finale toxic?
The McColley’s Finale, like most Philodendrons, is poisonous to people and animals. Because the plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, it’s advisable to keep it out of the reach of pets and children. Nausea, vomiting, skin irritation, swelling, swallowing pain, and eye irritation may occur if a leaf from a Philodendron McColley’s Finale is consumed. Therefore, if you or someone else accidentally swallows a McColley’s Finale leaf, you must go to the hospital right away.
Philodendron McColley's Finale Growth
We normally give an expected growth timetable to assist you with the propagation details; nevertheless, the time limit may vary depending on soil, temperature, and light factors. As a result, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye on the growing plant and meet the requirements as they arise.
Day 1 to Day 30: Keep the soil moist and equally moist over the first few days. You will not have to worry about watering in the case of water propagation. To keep the water from becoming mucky, you should replace it once a week. After the third week, rooting normally begins.
Day 30 to Day 60: Shoot development can commence after the first 45 to 50 days have passed. Continue to hydrate the soil or change the water regularly to allow the tiny plant to grow.
Onwards of Day 60: At this stage, a well-kept infant plant will flourish quickly. Simply follow Philodendron mccolley’s ultimate Care and watch the development of this baby.
Philodendron McColley's Finale vs. Prince of Orange: Differences and Similarities
At an early age, it’s difficult to identify the difference between Philodendron McColley’s Finale and Prince of Orange. But, after two weeks, the differences between them become more pronounced.
Both belong to the Philodendron genus, which includes 489 species of broad-leaved indoor and decorative plants. The leaves of young McColley’s Finale plants are cinnamon-colored, but as they mature, they turn a deep greenish-red color. On the other hand, Prince of Orange has orange-hued leaves in its infancy, as the name suggests.
Both belong to the philodendron genus and are self-heading. They also do better as a container plant and as a ground cover. Simple stem cuttings can be used to propagate both plants. Pruning the leggy stems of a mature plant will yield a few stem cuttings. These plants require very little fertilization, so use caution while applying fertilizer. In addition, these plants have been known to grow brown leaves with curled margins if you add too much of it.
Both plants are less demanding when it comes to sunshine – no direct sunlight is required. Instead, allow them full access to the bright indirect sunlight arriving from the windows or balcony to keep them happy. The majority of Philodendrons, including these two, prefer warm weather.
Philodendron McColley’s Finale and Prince of Orange are related and look the same. The foliage in McColley’s Finale starts out cinnamon-colored but eventually turns scarlet or red. They become glossy in the palm as they mature. This vibrant beauty is among the greatest indoor plants for your workplace or home.
It also looks great when planted in groups with other suitable plants on verandahs and patios in mild climates.
Prince of Orange is an attractive Philodendron hybrid that isn’t McColley’s Finale (but there are plenty more nice Philodendron hybrids out there besides these two).
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